Browsing tag: cat

Suddenly realise you’re late for your cat’s appointment at the vets. Run out to the garage and throw boxes around until you find cat basket. Scream as you remove spiders from cat basket. Look around the room for cat. No cat. Look upstairs for cat. No cat. Look in all closets for cat. No cat. Go back and look behind the sofa. Find cat. Move sofa, cat runs upstairs. Find cat under bed. Crawl under bed and grab cat by scruff and pull, dragging both cat and half of your carpet out from under the bed. Carry hissing and spitting cat downstairs to basket. Call for help as cat splays all four legs as wide as possible to avoid being put in basket. Finally get cat in basket. Drive howling cat to vet. Present cat, who has now vomited, urinated and defecated in the carrier, to the vet.

Sound familiar? I would bet that most cat owners have had a similar experience. And there’s nothing you can do about it, right? Cats hate carriers, cars, and vets and that’s just the way it is. But it doesn’t have to be that way! By following a few simple steps you can make the whole procedure much easier on both yourself and your cat.

Choose the right carrier.

There are some really ridiculous cat carriers out there. I’ve seen everything from designer handbags to pink plastic spaceship-like contraptions. Just because they look cute doesn’t mean they’re going to be of any use when it actually comes to transporting your cat. Forget your own sense of style and choose one that works.

• The most common cat carrier is either a plastic box or a wicker basket with a single wire door on the front. I don’t know who designed this, or why they thought it was a good idea, but they clearly never had to get a cat into one. Some young and curious kittens may jump right in just because they can, but most adult cats will be wary of walking into a situation that they can’t easily escape from, especially when they’re already stressed.

• By far the easiest carriers to use are the ones that have both a side door AND a top door. This gives the cat more options and gives you a much greater chance of getting them both in or out. Another good choice would be one that just has a very large top door.

• If you must choose one that has just one side door, at least make sure that it comes apart easily, with large latches that close securely but open easily with one hand. Most vets don’t keep a screwdriver in their consult room, so please don’t bring your cat in something that requires a degree in engineering to take apart.

• Fabric carriers may seem nice and comfortable to you, but their flexibility and tendency to collapse actually makes for a very insecure and likely frightening journey for your cat.

Clearly our Kitties don't mind boxes in general!

Use common sense.

If you think about it, cats don’t actually hate boxes or baskets, they lie in them all the time at home. They don’t mind being in enclosed places, and they don’t mind the dark. So why do they hate their carrier so much? Because it’s not the carrier itself, it’s the fact that it’s new and different and scary, and if they’ve been in it before, they know the whole process ahead of them is even more different and scary. But you can help them be less afraid-

Indie doesn't mind his carrier as it is used all the time as an alternative bed with a cosy blanket.

• Instead of keeping the carrier in a closet or garage, keep it in the living room. Ideally for a few days or even weeks, but at least the 24 hours prior to the appointment. This will give them a chance to check it out on their own time, even go in and out when no one is looking, so it won’t be so terrifying when they are put in it later.

• Put treats or a catnip toy in the basket so they are more likely to explore it.

• Reward your cat if he does go near or in the basket.

• Put your cat’s favourite blanket or some of your own clothing in the carrier if it will fit, to make it smell like home. Alternatively, a calming pheromone spray (Feliway) may help them feel more secure.

Be prepared.

Make sure you think through every step of the process before you start. Cats are not stupid. They probably know what you’re planning before you do.

• The day before the appointment (if you get that much notice), put the basket in one of the smallest rooms of the house, or the one with the fewest hiding places. Open the door to the carrier and leave it open, ready to go.

• On the day of the appointment, and in plenty of the time so you are not rushed, collect your cat from their favourite spot in the sun and carry them as you normally would into the room with the carrier, and shut the door behind you.

• Have somebody on standby in the next room to help if necessary.

• Gently place your cat into the carrier. OK, it’s probably not that easy, but whatever you do, stay calm and don’t panic – they will pick up on your anxiety and then it will be even harder. If you know your cat won’t go into the basket through the door, you can try tipping it on its side so you lower your cat in instead of shoving them in sideways. Alternatively, take the entire top off the carrier and leave it off before collecting your cat, then put the whole thing back together once your cat is inside. If you don’t have a friend to help, make sure the side with the door is facing a wall so they can’t escape through it while you put the top back on.

If they can get into the basket without getting upset, chances are the car ride will also go smoothly. There are some cats who simply hate the car though, and in this case, you can try loading up the carrier and car with more Feliway spray, and booking your appointment at a time when there is least likely to be traffic so the journey is a short as possible. Again, whatever you do, stay calm. Because a cat that is calm when it arrives at the vet is more likely to stay calm during the visit, making it easier for the vet to give them a complete physical exam and any treatments that are necessary. And if you can stay calm, you are much more likely to remember not only what questions you were meant to ask the vet, but also what the vet says during the consultation. All of which leads to better healthcare for your pet.

Of course, if all else fails, you can always look for a vet that does housecalls…

if you are worried about you cat’s health please talk to your vet or try our Cat Symptom Guide to check out how soon you may need to see your vet (and so how soon you’ll need to get the basket out!)

It is the time of year for New Year’s Resolutions but if our pets were to make them, what would they be…..?

Dog

Oh! A New Year’s resolution? That sounds fun! I can I do one? Can I, can I, please?! Right, OK, what should I try? How about slobbering less?! Could do but that would be VERY difficult and I think Mum would miss it, she always shouts with delight when I give her a big kiss, especially first thing in the morning when she hasn’t seen me for AGES! I love walks, what about going on more?! With Dad obviously, that time I tried it on my own wasn’t so successful. A lady caught me and I ended up at the VETS, yuk! But Dad soon came to collected me and said it was a good thing I was chips (I think!). I like chips, they let me eat the crunchy ones they don’t like. Anyway, yes, walks, I love them but wish I could go off the lead more (that’s why it was SO much fun when I went on my own!). Dad doesn’t let me much but I love to run. I know he gets a bit cross when I don’t come back straight away but it is so BRILLIANT to run, it’s what we dogs are made for! I suppose I would go back if he made things more interesting, like playing games or having some treats. Also, I am not very good at commands but then again we don’t practice them much and my doggy brain needs to be reminded otherwise I forget stuff. So, more walks where I can run, yes, that would be it! Now, where’s Mum, I feel a good slobber coming on!

Cat

A New Year’s resolution? That sounds like hard work, can’t I just lie here and sleep? I like sleeping, I am very good at it, maybe I should resolve to do it more, I think I could just about manage another hour or so a day, it is a very busy life you know. I used to run around when I was younger but it is much easier now to lie still now, the staff say that is because I am slightly larger than I used to be but I know that I am perfect. There is always a full bowl of biscuits down, but what is a cat to do, ignore them? I don’t think so! Obviously I don’t always eat everything I am given, sometimes I just lick the gravy or jelly from the meat course but that is mainly to keep the staff on their toes and the menu varied. I did hear mention if I stay this cuddly I could get problems like arthritis or diabetes, which don’t sound very nice, so maybe I should try to slim down a bit. Hmm, I shall sleep on it, zzzz.

Rabbit

Well, yes, a New Year’s resolution, I think I could manage that. Let me just clean my paws while I think. It would be nice to nose twitch to a friend about it but I don’t have one. nibble nibble I do get lonely on my own, the people come to see me every day, especially the little one, but it isn’t the same as having somebun here all the time. nibble nibble We bunnies naturally get on together well, think how many friends I would have if I lived in a burrow! One thing I know I should do is eat more hay, it is good for my teeth and tummy, nibble sniff nibble, but when there is a full bowl of yummy pellets around all the time, it is very difficult to resist them and then I don’t have any room for hay! nibble, clean ears, sniff, nibble So, I will try to eat more hay, but what I would really love is a friend! nibble, nibble, nose twitch, big sigh!

Our pets have simple needs and wants and it would be so easy in most cases to help them! Maybe that could be your New Year’s Resolution and then everyone’s a winner!

Why not take a look at our Pet Care Advice pages? Or if you are worried about your pet, check the problem with our Interactive Symptom Guide.

Lilies - the stamens can easily be removed but ALL parts of the plant are poisonous if eaten

As far as plants go, lilies are among the most beautiful. They smell lovely and seem to last forever, making them a fantastic addition to any floral arrangement. Humans adore them and most animals aren’t bothered by them, but for cats, lilies are positively deadly. And it doesn’t take much. A single bite of leaf or lick of pollen can be all it takes to send a cat into irreversible kidney failure. As cat owners, we all need to be aware of how dangerous this common household plant can be, and take the necessary steps to keep our unsuspecting pets safe.

What makes lilies so toxic to cats?

• We don’t know exactly which chemical within the lily is so dangerous, but we do know that ingesting the smallest amount of leaf, stem, flower or even pollen can be deadly.
• Most types of lilies are poisonous, including asian lilies (Lily asiatica), tiger lilies (Lilium tigrinum), stargazer lilies (Lilium orientalis) and Easter lilies (Lilium longiflorum).
• Other animals, including dogs and rabbits, can eat lilies with just a bit of mild stomach upset and do not seem to suffer from toxicity.

What are the symptoms of lily poisoning?

• At first, lily poisoning can mimic other cases of ‘dietary indiscretion’ as we like to call it (eating something that they shouldn’t have), so it can be difficult to know what has happened unless you saw them eat it. Signs include vomiting and lethargy, lack of appetite and shaking. If your cat does vomit, always take a look to see what they brought up – this may be icky but it could save your cat’s life if you can tell the vet what they got into.
• These initial symptoms can actually disappear for a few hours to a few days, after the plant has passed through the digestive tract but before the real disease becomes obvious.
• Within a few days, however, the symptoms become those of kidney failure. This includes increased thirst and urination, dehydration, and worsening lethargy, vomiting and inappetence. Eventually, this increased urination turns into a decrease in urination, and finally no urination at all, which indicates that the kidneys are no longer functioning.

What can be done about it?

• If you think your cat has eaten any amount of any part of a lily, it is critical that you take them to the vet right away, even before clinical signs appear. And of course, if you notice any of the symptoms listed above, get them to the vet immediately. If it happens outside of your vet’s normal opening hours, phone the designated emergency clinic.
• If they make it to the vet within a few hours of ingestion, the vet will likely induce vomiting and possibly give a substance called activated charcoal, which will help lessen the effects of the toxins.
• Then, or if too much time has already gone by, the vet may put your cat on a drip and give IV fluids for as long as necessary. These fluids will help support the kidneys as they try to process the poison and flush out any toxins that do make it into the blood stream.
• There is no special blood test to diagnose lily toxicity, so many cases go undiagnosed. Your vet will however likely run a general blood and urine test to check how badly the kidneys may have been damaged. These tests will probably need to be repeated several times during their stay in hospital.

What happens next?

• If you are able to get your cat to the vet within a few hours of ingestion, the chances are much greater that they will make it through the incident with the appropriate medical care. It is vitally important that your cat see the vet as soon as possible to begin treatment.
• If it has been more than 4 hours since ingestion and the lily toxins have already been absorbed, the prognosis is significantly worse and kidney damage to some degree is likely.
• If no treatment is given, or the kidneys have been damaged to the point where urination is starting to decrease, then sadly the chance of survival is very low.
• The feline kidney is a very delicate structure and unlike other organs such as the skin or the liver, it does not heal itself once damaged. Therefore, the chance of permanent kidney damage is high and even if the cat survives the initial incident, they may suffer from chronic kidney disease later in life. Long-term fluid therapy and regular blood tests may be necessary to monitor kidney function even after recovering from the initial toxicity.

How can lily poisoning be prevented?

• The best way to prevent lily poisoning in your own home is to prevent lilies from entering your home in the first place. This is easier said than done when well-meaning significant others or dinner guests bring home a lovely bouquet, however most people will understand your concerns.
• Remember, however, that it’s not just lilies in your house that can be deadly, always check your own garden for these and other toxic plants. The internet is a good resource for finding out which plants are child and pet-friendly and which should be avoided, just always make sure you trust the source of your information.
• Spread the word – by telling other people about the dangers of lilies, you are helping to increase awareness of the problem. The ISFM (International Society of Feline Medicine) has launched a campaign to help educate the public about lily toxicity. Their website has informative posters and tags to be put around floral arrangements that contain lilies at the florist. The more people know about lily toxicity, the safer all of our cats will be.

If you are concerned that your cat may have eaten any part of a lily, or any other toxic material, contact your vet immediately. If you are sure lilies are not to blame our Interactive Cat Symptom Guide can be used to check out any problems you are worried about.

The nights have drawn in, Merry Hill is heaving and the carols have already been playing for weeks – it’s Christmas! If you are anything like me and leave everything to the last minute, you don’t have much time to plan the ideal gifts and sometimes you buy things that aren’t always that suitable. Now, I can’t tell you what not to buy for your Dad (although I’m guessing he doesn’t really want socks again) but I can tell you what not to buy for your pets!

Dogs are intelligent, social, active creatures who are, and this is important, in possession of extremely efficient furry coats. This means that they do not need an extensive wardrobe of clothes! The range of outfits you can buy for them is truly astonishing and yes they might look cute dressed up as a Christmas fairy or in a t-shirt that says ‘The Dogfather’ (!) but who is it really for? Not the dog, who invariably looks miserable trussed up, but for their owner.
The irony of course is that although these outfits are bought as an expression of love for the pet, they are often over-indulged animals who, as a consequence of being spoiled, are not always that pleasant to be around. Of course, some dogs do feel the cold but a simple padded jacket is fine, or (and this is a ground breaking suggestion) once you are out, get them running around, they’ll soon be warm then! Doggy accessories that are worth purchasing are decent collars and leads, haltis for those who pull and a few sturdy toys to keep them occupied on walks or in the home.

Cats could not be more different to dogs (good luck to anyone who tries to put an outfit on their moggy!) but they are still valued members of the family and often have something under the tree! However, don’t buy them one big expensive toy, get them several cheaper ones instead. Cats will play with anything new that appears but once they have done this for a couple of days, they are likely to ignore it. So, having a box of lots of toys and changing them round regularly will ensure they always have something to keep them interested.
Also, don’t buy your cats a double feeder of any variety, they are truly pointless. Not only will a cat rarely drink where they also eat (an instinct from hunting which stops them drinking from water near where they catch their prey, would you want to drink where a rat had probably wee’d?!), they also hate to eat with other cats and forcing them to share from a double feeder encourages them to gorge on their food so they don’t have to stay long and increases stress levels. Great buys for cats include activity toys like fishing rods or anything on a string, igloo beds (cats love to hide but make sure you put them somewhere high up) and water fountains.

Finally, rabbits. There are loads of great activity toys in the shops for rabbits so there is absolutely no excuse to fall back on the usual Christmas failsafe of treats! Obesity is a big health problem in bunnies and causes all sorts of issues from dirty bottoms to arthritis. Also, too many treats can mean they don’t eat enough hay which can cause problems with their teeth. Great gifts for rabbits include willow chew toys and the biggest cage and run you can afford! Alternatively you could give a gift to yourself and rabbit-proof all the wires if they are kept indoors, which should ensure there are no unexpected interruptions during the Christmas TV scheduling!

I hope you and all your pets have a Happy Christmas and a Healthy 2012!
If you have any questions about your pet, you should always contact your vet.

If you are worried about your pet over the Christmas period and are unsure whether your need to see a vet you can always call them for advice, or try our Interactive Symptom Guide to see how urgent the problem may be.

I see it almost every day, and constantly warn my clients about it, yet somehow even I wasn’t expecting it – yes, last week my very own cat came home with fleas. ‘How could this happen to me?’ I said, ‘I’m the vet!’ Well, the answer is very simple. I, like many of us, forgot to apply my cat’s flea preventative for the past few months. The weather was getting colder and she wasn’t going out as much, and with everything else going on the monthly treatment just slipped my mind. It sure was a wakeup call, however, to find the
tell-tale rusty brown dirt on my cat’s favourite bed.

And let’s face it, fleas are downright creepy. They eat blood and leave their faeces all over your pet, not to mention the fact that they can live in your carpets and even jump up and bite you. But at the same time, they’re pretty amazing little creatures, and successful ones at that.

Did you know…

… there are more than 2000 species of fleas around the world? 63 of these are found in the UK, and 10 of these can be found in our own homes. The most common species seen however, is called Ctenocephalides felis, which although it is commonly called the cat flea can also be found on dogs.

… fleas are responsible for spreading the Bubonic Plague in people, and myxomatosis in rabbits?

… fleas can jump up to 150 times their own length, and consume 15 times their own body weight in blood daily?

… a female flea can lay about 50 eggs a day, and once these new fleas mature, they can each bite up to 400 times a day. Add all that up and you’ve got one miserable cat.

How do I know if my cat has fleas?

This sounds like a simple question but it can be a lot harder than you think to diagnose fleas in cats. Sure, sometimes you can see them scurrying around your cat’s fur but it isn’t always that easy. In fact, I have seen four patients with significant flea infestations in just the past week, and none of their owners were aware of the problem. Animals with fleas don’t always itch, and there are lots of other reasons why cats can be itchy. Also, cats can sometimes eat any fleas that they come across whilst grooming themselves, so you don’t always see them. The most reliable way to tell if your cat has fleas is to comb your cat well with a very fine-toothed comb (they make flea combs just for that purpose) over a piece of white paper or onto some cotton wool. This will result in the flea ‘dirt’ (which is actually their faeces) falling onto the white surface where you can see it. Then cover the specks with a bit of water and rub gently – if the dirt turns reddish-brown, it is flea dirt. If your cat has a lot of fleas, you may be able to see the dirt in their bedding or other favourite areas without even needing a comb.

Of course, if you have any doubts, your vet would be happy to examine your cat for fleas and advise you as to the best course of action.

Why is it important to prevent and treat fleas?

• Adult fleas feed on blood, which in young kittens can result in weakness, anaemia, and even death.

• Some animals are very allergic to flea bites, which makes them more likely to develop a bad skin infection as a result. Even one bite can set off a reaction, so you may not ever see the offending flea itself. So if your cat has an itchy skin infection but you can’t find any fleas, it’s probably worth treating them for fleas anyway.

• Fleas carry tapeworms, which are spread to the cat when they eat the fleas during grooming. Therefore, if your cat has fleas, they should also be treated for tapeworms.

• If all of that wasn’t bad enough, they can bite you too. Cat fleas won’t live on a human, but they won’t be able to resist a free meal…

How do you treat a cat with fleas?

Before going into battle against your cat’s fleas, it’s a good idea to understand a bit about their life cycle so you can plan the best attack. Adult fleas mostly live on the cat, but they can live up to two years and survive in the environment for up to six months. Once they find a host, they start eating and laying eggs. Both the eggs and the flea faeces fall off the animal, where the larvae hatch and feed on the flea dirt. The satisfied larvae then dig deep into carpeting or furniture, trying to escape the light and making themselves incredibly hard to kill. They then develop into pupae and build themselves a cocoon. The flea develops to adulthood inside the cocoon then waits until just the right moment to burst out and jump onto your unsuspecting cat by detecting changes in pressure, heat, noise or vibrations. The whole process takes about 15 days from egg to adulthood, but they can lie waiting in their cocoons for up to 2 years so modern conveniences like central heating can cause a resurgence in flea populations that you thought you had under control. As you can see, treating fleas doesn’t just involve putting a flea preventative on your pet (although that’s a very good place to start), you must treat the environment as well.

1. Ask your vet which flea medication is best for your pet and use this as directed. This will be either a long-acting insecticide to kill adult fleas or an insect development inhibitor to prevent eggs from maturing into adult fleas, or possibly both. These can come in the form of a spot-on liquid, spray, tablet, or injection. Collars and powders are not recommended for use in cats now that more effective and safer treatments are available. Flea treatments from the pet shop or internet may be just fine, but they also may not work as well and if used incorrectly, could seriously harm your cat. Be particularly careful never to give a flea product intended for dogs to your cat! If in doubt, ask your vet.

2. Treat ALL animals in the house, provided there is a licensed flea treatment for that particular species. If you treat just one pet and not the others, the fleas will just go live on them instead.

3. Wash everything that you can. This particularly includes their bedding (and your bedding, if they have access to that too, eek!).

4. Hoover everything else. Frequently. This includes carpets, floorboards, skirting boards, sofas or other soft furnishings and any other little nooks and crannies where the young fleas may hide.

5. Once you’ve done your best to mechanically remove as many fleas as possible from the house, and if you still have a problem, go after the remaining residents chemically. There are several products on the market that can be used to safely treat fleas in your house, ask your vet for their recommendation.

6. Finally, be prepared to repeat these treatments if necessary, as flea eggs can hatch in waves that will need to be treated at different times. Be patient, be thorough, and be sure to follow all instructions carefully.

As with most things, an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. If even the thought of fleas makes you shiver or perhaps you don’t fancy the extra housework mentioned above, I’d suggest you take steps to prevent your cat from getting fleas in the first place. Use flea preventatives on a regular basis as directed by your vet, which often means once a month. Don’t be tempted to stop the preventative in the winter months, which may be OK in colder climates but doesn’t apply to most of the UK, especially thanks to central heating. Remembering to apply the preventatives regularly can be difficult, so many come with stickers that you can put on your calendars, don’t be ashamed to use them! And remember, even vets’ cats are at risk – fleas can strike any pet, at any time. Be ready!

If you are concerned that your cat is itching or has fleas, check their symptoms using our Interactive Cat Symptom Guide to find out if you need to see your vet.

Fireworks can be an enjoyable spectacle, but not for everybody. Many dogs and cats are very frightened by loud noises, and in some this fear is severe enough to be a noise phobia. For these pets and their owners, the days or weeks around November 5th each year can be a nightmare.

The sorts of behaviour shown by noise phobic pets when they hear fireworks (or thunder or gunshots) can range from mild anxiety to sheer terror. In between these two extremes pets may pace around, refuse to settle, whine, bark, chew things up, dig holes, urinate or defaecate indoors or run away. A pet which bolts when frightened is at risk of having or causing a road accident. As owners, naturally we all want to reduce the distress our pets are feeling.

There is a lot that can be done to help pets through these problems, and the key to this is to plan as early as possible. Seek advice from your local veterinary surgery, where your vet or nurse will be able to help you decide on the best strategy for your pet.

Making your pet a safe “den” where they can retreat when they feel scared can help. Playing music or having the television on may reduce the amount of distant noise your pet will hear, but will not mask fireworks which are close by. Walk your dog early in the day while it is still light, when fireworks are much less likely, and provide your cat with a litter tray, allowing them to get used to it well in advance.

The way you react when your pet shows fear is most important, and probably the most difficult thing to get right. Our natural reaction is always to soothe and comfort our pet, but this will only reinforce their belief that there is something to be afraid of. The best way to help them is to ignore the fireworks yourself, try to act as you normally would and ignore your pet’s behaviour as much as possible. This does not come naturally to anyone who has a distressed pet, but it really can help.

Desensitisation to noise over a period of time by using special tapes or CDs can be very successful. It is time consuming and requires commitment on the part of the owner. This is a long term strategy, but can be used in conjunction with other methods. There are also other ways in which a behaviourist may be able to help your pet to react differently to stressful situations.

Pheromones are chemical substances which are released in nature by nursing bitches and have a calming effect on their young. Similar facial pheromones are produced by cats to communicate with other cats by rubbing against objects. These chemicals are not masked by smells as they are not detected by the nose but by a quite separate receptor. There are several ways in which synthetic pheromones can be used to calm animals in stressful situations. Synthetic pheromones are available as collars, as sprays or in plug-in diffusers, and your surgery can advise you which would be most appropriate and how to use them. They need to be used properly according to the instructions to be successful.

Many people assume that the only solution would be to sedate their pet so that they sleep through the noise, but there are several drawbacks to this. Firstly, sedatives are prescription only medicines which cannot legally be supplied to you over the counter unless your vet is satisfied that he/she has examined your pet recently enough to know what state of health they are in. Popping in to the surgery for some sedatives on November 4th is not likely to be successful. Secondly, different animals react differently to the same drug sometimes, so your vet may want to find the best dosage by having a trial run. Thirdly, if fireworks in your area go on for days or weeks, it is unlikely to be a good idea to sedate your dog or cat repeatedly.

If sedatives are used, there has been a change over recent years away from some types which may make the animal quite immobile but do little or nothing to calm its fear. More commonly used now are drugs which calm the animal but do not necessarily knock it out.

Top tips for coping with fireworks fear:

1) Plan ahead & ask for advice at your vets.

2) Make sure your dogs are walked early in the day and then kept in. Provide cats with a litter tray.

3) Make a safe den where your pet can retreat.

4) Play music or TV, try to act normally.

5) Resist the temptation to soothe and comfort your pet.

6) Follow instructions carefully for best results from pheromone products or sedatives.

7) If you left it too late to plan properly this year, make a note in next year’s diary now.

If you are worried about any specific symptoms your pet is showing, talk to your vet or try out our Interactive Symptom Guide to see what you should do.

As the current economic situation continues to squeeze the family finances, I have noticed an increase in clients who would prefer not to vaccinate their cat. There are probably many more who are simply not showing up for their yearly exam so we don’t even have a chance to discuss the issue with them. Now, there are certainly times when I would accept that a cat should not be vaccinated, and in fact I often have to convince my clients NOT to vaccinate their pet if they are ill in any way. Vaccines are part of a preventative medicine protocol, and should in most cases only be given to healthy pets when the benefit of having the vaccine on board outweighs the risk of giving it. In most cases, however, the benefit far outweighs the risk, and therefore responsible vaccination is highly recommended. I’ll discuss what ‘responsible’ vaccination means in greater detail in my next blog, but first I thought I might explain a bit more about why vaccination is so important.

What diseases are cats routinely vaccinated against?

Feline vaccinations are generally separated into ‘core’ (those that every cat should have) and ‘non-core’ (those that only high-risk cats should receive). The four core vaccines that should be given to every cat are parvovirus, herpesvirus, calicivirus, and rabies. The rabies vaccine, however, should only be given in areas where rabies is a concern (for example, in the United States). The UK is currently rabies-free, therefore British cats are not routinely given the rabies vaccine unless they will be travelling to other countries. If you would like more information about the rabies vaccine, please speak with your vet. There may very well come a day when we are also required to vaccinate for rabies in the UK, but for now I’ll concentrate on the first three diseases.

Parvovirus

• The feline parvovirus is the name of the virus that causes feline panleukopenia. This is such a widespread disease that it has many other names, including feline infectious enteritis, feline distemper, and cat plague. Symptoms include severe vomiting and sometimes bloody diarrhoea, ataxia (loss of balance or stumbling), and death with a mortality rate of more than 50% in kittens under 1 year of age and 10% in cats older than 1 year. It can also cause abortion or defects of unborn kittens if the mother cat is infected during pregnancy (pregnant cats should also not receive certain types of the vaccine for the same reason). The feline parvovirus should not be confused with the canine parvovirus. Some strains of canine parvovirus could potentially affect cats, but those that have received the feline parvovirus vaccine should be covered. Likewise, the feline version has not been shown to infect dogs.

Herpesvirus

• The feline herpesvirus is what causes feline viral rhinotracheitis, otherwise known as feline influenza (cat flu) and feline coryza. It is responsible for about half of the respiratory disease seen in cats and along with calicivirus and a few other nasty bugs and environmental factors, leads to the disease called ‘feline respiratory disease complex’. In most cases, herpesvirus infection results in mild symptoms that go away on their own (like sneezing or mild nasal discharge) however it can cause severe rhinitis (inflammation in the nose and sinuses), conjunctivitis (eye infection), fever, depression, and loss of appetite as well, with kittens less than 6 months old showing the most severe symptoms. It can be particularly bad in multi-cat households, catteries and shelters, with a mortality rate of up to 20-30%. Like parvovirus, it can cause abortion in newly-infected mother cats. Unlike parvovirus however this vaccination does not prevent cats from getting this disease, but it does lessen the severity of symptoms making it less likely to be fatal or develop into pneumonia. The virus can live in the body for long periods of time and become reactivated during times of stress (such as boarding at the cattery, moving house, new pets in the house or pregnancy) or underlying medical conditions (treatment with steroids or concurrent FeLV or FIV infection), which is why even vaccinated cats will sometimes ‘catch a cold’ when they are stressed.

Calicivirus

• Like herpesvirus, feline calicivirus also leads to the condition called feline respiratory disease complex and is responsible for most of the other 50% of cases. The symptoms of calicivirus are similar to those of herpesvirus, with sneezing, nasal discharge, conjunctivitis, fever and loss of appetite however severe infections result in significant eye disease (sometimes so swollen that the eye cannot be opened) and ulceration of the mouth and tongue. It is fatal in up to 20-30% of cases, particularly young kittens. Like herpesvirus, vaccination does not prevent infection but will make the disease easier to bear and less likely to cause long-term or fatal complications.

A note about Feline Leukaemia (FeLV) and other available vaccinations

• There is one other vaccine that is recommended for most cats in the UK but is less widely used in the US, and that is FeLV or feline leukaemia virus. The reason for this is that most American cats are kept inside for their whole lives while British cats are allowed outdoors where they are more likely to contact other cats. FeLV is a retrovirus that is spread by the saliva of infected cats in close contact or from mother to kitten. The prevalence of this disease is currently thought to be about 1% in healthy UK cats (nearly 20% in sick cats), but in reality could be either higher or lower. The virus itself causes a cancer of the blood cells called leukaemia and this is usually fatal. The chance of picking up FeLV is much greater in kittens than it is in cats over 1 year old, although older cats can certainly become infected. As this is considered a non-core vaccine, its use is slightly less straightforward than the previous three vaccines, but most UK vets do currently recommend it.

• Other vaccines available for cats include chlamydophila and bordetella (recommended for use in specific situations), and FIV and FIP (which although they do exist, are not recommended for any cat). Unless you are a breeder or shelter manager, you will probably never be offered one of these vaccines. If you are, make sure you understand why the vaccine is being recommended and feel free to discuss your concerns with your vet.

Feline parvovirus, herpesvirus, calicivirus, rabies and leukaemia virus are all serious illnesses that can be severely debilitating if not fatal to your cat. Vaccination, although not a complete guarantee against infection, is highly effective in preventing and limiting these diseases. I’ll discuss other aspects of vaccine administration in my next article, but clearly the concept of vaccination is a sound one and we should be making the most of this invaluable tool in preventative medicine. Not having your pet vaccinated is like placing a bet on their health. Would you being willing to bet your pet’s life on the spin of a roulette wheel? Not having them vaccinated (although admittedly the odds are much lower) is no different. And of course, for those sceptical souls with a more financial outlook on the whole subject, I’d like to point out that the cost of the vaccine is significantly lower than the cost of treating any of these diseases!

Cassie

Cassie the retriever was diagnosed with diabetes mellitus last year, and has twice daily treatment with insulin. Apart from her injections, and regular blood tests, she is able to lead a normal life and do all the things she enjoyed before she became diabetic. Cassie is just 6 years old, but with good management of her condition she has every chance of enjoying a full life.

Diabetes is an illness where the animal has a lack of the hormone insulin, or the body does not respond normally to its own insulin. Insulin is produced in the pancreas, a gland which lies close to the stomach. Usually, insulin helps keep the level of glucose in the bloodstream stable. When glucose levels start to rise, insulin is produced to halt this rise in a number of different ways: it increases the uptake of glucose into body tissues, it stimulates conversion of glucose into glycogen for storage in the liver, and it stops glucose production from metabolising fat and protein. Without insulin, glucose levels in the blood go on rising (hyperglycaemia), causing a variety of symptoms. When it reaches a certain level in the blood, the kidneys can no longer filter it out so glucose appears in the urine (glycosuria). This creates ideal conditions for bacteria to live and multiply, so urine infections can result.

The symptoms of diabetes in dogs or cats include drinking more than usual, urinating more than usual, eating more than usual and weight loss despite a good appetite. If left untreated, complications like liver disease, cataracts and weakness develop, and ultimately it can be fatal. In most cases, the first thing noticed by the owner is an increase in thirst. Obesity can be a factor in causing diabetes and is a very important reason to keep your pet at a healthy weight.

This is the sort of equipment which might be used at home to treat and monitor a diabetic patient. Full training will be given by the vet or vet nurse at the practice, and telephone advice can be given whenever it is needed.

Diagnosis is made by a full clinical examination and by urine and blood tests. Diabetes is not the only condition which causes these symptoms, and it can occur in combination with other conditions, so it is important to get a definite diagnosis and to rule out other illnesses. Stress can cause a temporary rise in blood glucose, so it may be necessary to repeat the tests before the diagnosis is made. When a high level of glucose is found in the blood, a second test may be done to check the levels of fructosamine. This tells us whether the blood glucose has been raised over a period of several weeks, or if it has just happened. Further tests may be needed to confirm that diabetes is present and to rule out other illnesses.

Treatment of diabetes is nearly always by injections of insulin, given once or, more commonly, twice daily. These need to be given for the rest of the animal’s life, except in a few cases where the diabetes goes into remission and treatment can be stopped. This happens more often in cats than in dogs. These cases will be picked up by the monitoring carried out by your vet.

Giving injections to your own dog or cat can seem quite daunting but is actually much easier than most people think. The needles used are very small so that the injections do not hurt, and full training will be given by your vet or vet nurse. The insulin has to be kept under the right conditions (upright, in the fridge) and must not be shaken, but these things very quickly become second nature. Noting any changes in your pet’s thirst, appetite and urination can also be useful.

At the start of treatment, your dog or cat will need to be stabilised on the right dose of insulin, which differs with each patient, by slowly increasing until the right dose is reached. Your vet may also carry out a test called a glucose curve, when your dog or cat is blood tested at frequent intervals over a 24 hour period. This helps by showing how long after an insulin injection the glucose levels dip to their lowest level, and how long after eating the blood glucose levels rise to their maximum level. The aim is to control the glucose level throughout the day as close to normal as possible.

While your dog or cat is undergoing tests and being stabilised, it might be hospitalised, but usually treatment can be given at home after a short time. Regular blood tests every few weeks (or months if very stable) will be needed after that. Sometimes owners will perform some of these blood tests at home using a kit very similar to that used by people with diabetes to test their glucose levels. The use of glucose testing kits which give a very rapid result, whether used at home or at the surgery, means that it is no longer necessary to collect daily urine samples from the pet. Monitoring the glucose in the blood can be more accurate and allows better control of the insulin dosage.

A diabetic dog or cat needs to have a regular amount of exercise and food, given as near as possible to the same time of day each day. A special diet may be recommended by your vet because it helps to control the condition if the diet is higher in protein, lower in fat, higher in fibre and contains carbohydrates which release their energy slowly. All of these help to keep glucose levels as stable as possible, with no sudden peaks or troughs. Keeping your pet at the correct weight is also important.

Unspayed bitches which develop diabetes may suffer from changes in their insulin requirements when they come into season, because of other hormonal changes, which may destabilise them again. Your vet may want to discuss neutering with you.

Complications can occur in diabetes and your vet or nurse will make you aware of what problems to look out for. The most likely would be if glucose levels fell too low (hypoglycaemia). The dog or cat would become confused and twitchy or may collapse. It is essential to have some form of sugar or honey easily available to give by mouth if this happens, and then to phone the surgery straight away for further advice.

Looking after a dog or cat with diabetes requires a certain amount of commitment from the owner, but most people say that it becomes easy once they get used to it. The key is to give your pet a standard daily routine of food, exercise and insulin injections, and to use your veterinary surgery for support and advice whenever you need it. Most diabetic dogs and cats will have a very happy life without even being aware that they have a medical condition.

If you are worried that your dog or cat may be displaying symptoms of diabetes please call your vet immediately. If you are not sure how urgent the situation is please use our interactive pet symptom checker

Jenny Sheriff BVM&S MRCVS

One evening whilst playing outside, a little 6 month old kitten (let’s call her Tilly) climbed up a tree. A rather inexperienced hunter, when she saw a little birdie on the end of the branch she reached out to get it and, crash! The branch was too thin to support her weight and she fell to the ground. Now what they say is often true, cats do tend to land on their feet, but not always and poor Tilly landed on her side. She got up though and ran into the house, so her owner assumed she was OK. A few hours later her owner noticed that she was quieter than normal and not interested in her dinner. She was also breathing faster than normal but otherwise seemed OK, purring and affectionate, so her owner went to bed and planned to take her to the vet if she was still not right in the morning.

As you could probably guess, at 8:00 the next morning I got a phone call from Tilly’s owner, as she had not gotten any better overnight – she was still very quiet and breathing even faster than before. We told her to come straight down and we would take a look right away. A few minutes later Tilly arrived, looking quite sorry for herself, but still happy enough to give me a little purr. I did a full physical exam and found her to be in good health except for her breathing, which sounded quieter than normal through the stethoscope. Her respiratory or breathing rate was very high and she seemed to be struggling to get enough air in. She also seemed depressed, certainly not what I would expect of such a lively young kitten. Once we were certain that everything else seemed to be OK, we gave her some pain medicine and then a little bit of sedation so she would sit still while we took some x-rays of her chest. What we found was no surprise given her history, but still always comes as a bit of a shock when we see it – Tilly had a diaphragmatic hernia.

What is a diaphragmatic hernia?

The diaphragm is a large, thin muscle that separates the chest cavity (with the heart and lungs) from the abdomen (with the stomach, liver and intestines among other things). It is normally an air-tight barrier which allows the chest cavity to achieve negative pressure, in other words there is pressure on the lungs to expand out rather than collapse in. When the diaphragm moves down with each breath, the lungs move with it causing them to expand even further when you breathe in. And when it moves back up again, it helps the lungs to contract so the air is forced out when you exhale. Without a diaphragm or with a damaged one you can still breathe, just not very well, and this is what poor Tilly was experiencing. A hernia is the protrusion of an organ through a hole in the body cavity which normally contains it. In the case of a diaphragmatic hernia, a hole develops in the diaphragm which allows the organs of the abdomen to enter the chest cavity. As you can imagine, this is neither good for chest, as the invading organ takes up precious lung space, nor for the organ itself as sometimes its blood supply can get cut off in the process. Some diaphragmatic hernias are emergencies and need to be corrected immediately, while some can go on for weeks without anybody even noticing, it depends on the size of the hole and which organs get displaced. Some animals are even born with them. In Tilly’s case, the sudden pressure on her belly from hitting the ground caused her diaphragm to tear and some of her liver to move up through the hole. It was a serious condition but not a life-threatening emergency, and it has been shown that there is a higher success rate in some cases if surgery is done after 24-48 hours, so she was scheduled for surgery to repair the hernia the following day and kept in hospital under close observation until then.

This is an image of Tilly’s chest – the dotted line shows where the diaphragm usually sits and the solid line shows Tilly’s diaphragm, with the liver sitting inside the bulge. A relatively easy but dramatic diagnosis!

So what happened?

We took Tilly to surgery the following day and once we could see inside, the extent of the injury became apparent. There was a 5 cm tear in the diaphragm muscle, and about half of her liver was now sitting right next to her lungs! We were able to carefully pull the liver back into the abdomen and sew up the hole, making sure that all the organs looked happy and healthy before finishing the surgery. Our nurse did a fantastic job keeping Tilly stable under the anaesthetic, and even had to breathe for her for a few minutes while we sewed up the hole. Just before we woke her up, we inserted a needle into the chest to drain out all the extra air so that her chest cavity could regain its negative pressure. Her breathing was immediately improved, and stayed that way throughout her recovery. The next day she was eating and even trying to play with the notes on her cage, so she was able to go home.

It has now been nearly a week and Tilly is still doing really well. Her owner says she is even trying to climb things, despite being told that she must stay very quiet to allow her injuries some time to heal. If only you could explain to her how she got into this trouble in the first place! All the best to brave Tilly and her brave owners, I expect she will make a full recovery and be back to her usual kitten acrobatics in no time.

If you are worried about any problems with your cat, talk to your vet or try our Interactive Cat Symptom Guide to help decide what to do next.

For the past month our local radio station has been bombarding us with adverts asking us to give blood due to increased need over the holidays. My husband and I ignored them at first but then eventually gave in. On the way home after giving blood, we started talking about cats donating blood and I realised it had been ages since I’d seen a feline transfusion. They are relatively uncommon, especially in general practice, but it’s an interesting subject so I thought I might look into it a bit further. Hopefully your cat will never need one, but if they do (or if you’re just curious about the whole process!), here’s a little bit about what goes on behind the scenes.

Why would a cat need a blood transfusion?

The main reason why cats get blood transfusions is because they are severely anaemic, which means they don’t have enough red blood cells in their blood. Red blood cells are responsible for carrying the body’s oxygen, so not having enough of them leads to serious problems. Anaemia can occur for three main reasons – not enough red blood cells are produced (problems with the bone marrow or chronic diseases such as cancer), too many are lost (major bleeding after an injury or surgery), or too many are destroyed (autoimmune disease or poisoning). Mild anaemia is not a problem and the cat’s body will usually recover on its own, but severe red blood cell loss either needs to be treated or else it can end in euthanasia. Sometimes medication is enough to fix the anaemia, but occasionally the lost blood cells need to be replaced. The way we measure red blood cells is called PCV (packed cell volume), also sometimes referred to as HCT (haematocrit), and transfusions are only really indicated when that number gets below 12-14% along with clinical signs. If a cat has a disease that can be treated such as infection, autoimmune disease or severe bleeding, then a transfusion may be performed but if their condition cannot be fixed, such as most cancers or end-stage chronic kidney disease, then it probably won’t.

Do cats have different blood types?

Yes. Just like people, cats have different blood types and giving the wrong one can have disastrous consequences. Feline blood types are called A, B, or AB, similarly named to those in people but entirely different chemically, and the difference between them is the type of chemical called an antigen that the cells have on their surfaces. The cat’s body knows to leave cells with its own antigens alone but to kill off cells that have the other type of antigen, so giving the wrong type of blood will not only result in severe inflammatory disease in the cat but also the immediate destruction of the new cells that have just been given. Therefore, it is essential that all cats be blood typed prior to donating or receiving blood (unlike dogs, who are not as picky for their first transfusion). Most cats worldwide are type A, fewer are type B, and very few are type AB. Interestingly, certain breeds are more likely to have certain blood types, with most Siamese having type A and most Devon Rex having type B. Most standard domestic shorthair cats are type A. There are other variations in feline blood, such as Mik positive or negative, which can cause reactions but these are less well studied and it is not yet possible to test for them. If any sort of mismatch is suspected, then a drop of the donor’s blood is mixed with a drop of the recipient’s blood on a card and the cells are monitored for a reaction.

Where does the blood for transfusions come from?

Although there are some feline blood banks in the US, most feline blood transfusions in the UK come directly from donor cats at the time it is needed. Donor cats, who are often staff pets but if your cat is big and healthy there’s no reason why they couldn’t donate, should be at least 4 kg but preferably over 5 kg in weight and must not have donated blood in the past 2 months. They should also be fully vaccinated, screened for infectious diseases and not on any medications. Potential donors are given a full physical exam and blood test to ensure they are healthy enough to give blood, and a blood type is done. Once they have passed all of these tests, they are usually sedated and approximately 50-60 ml of blood is collected from the jugular vein in the neck over about 10-15 minutes, followed by the administration of IV fluids to help replace some of the lost blood volume. The blood can then be stored in the refrigerator for up to 24 hours because it is mixed with an anti-coagulant to keep it from clotting.

How is a blood transfusion given?

The blood from the donor cat is then attached to an IV fluid line and filter and given very slowly into the patient’s vein. The recipient cat needs to be watched very carefully for any sign of reaction such as fever, changes in heart rate or changes in blood pressure. The whole process usually takes several hours and the cat is checked regularly throughout. The prognosis for any cat given a blood transfusion depends much more on the underlying condition than the transfusion itself, but it can significantly improve survival for cats with certain kinds of conditions.
Feline blood transfusions are most commonly done in large referral centres, but as there is no special equipment needed they can be done in general practice as well. Because of the time and cost associated with screening both donor and recipient cats, as well as the collection and transfusion process itself, blood transfusions are very expensive and therefore not often chosen by the owner even if they are on offer. But as veterinary medicine progresses and we become more comfortable with the process, it will hopefully become a more practical option in the future.

If you are worried about any problems with your cat, speak to your vet or try our Interactive Cat Symptom Guide to help decide what to do next.